Vakkotavare
After struggling just a little (mainly with my morale) on the previous leg from Jäkkvik, the stretch of path between Kvikkjokk and Saltoluokta has been an absolute treat. It’s like…
Kvikkjokk
I’ve passed 1000km. Quite a milestone, in its way, though of course there is a lot further to go. Just a quick update from Kvikkjokk STF station, where I decided…
Ammarnäs, and time for some ruthless pack whittling
A quick update from the comfort of Ammarnäs hostel, where I spent last night sheltering from an electrical storm. Rarely have I been so pleased by a decision to take…
Hemavan
I’ve reached Hemavan, beginning of the Kungsleden and the end of stage three. It’s been a stretch of real highs and lows. Among the highlights was my wonderful birthday in…
Man down
Yesterday was a truly calamitous day. It rained steadily from mid-morning as we descended through increasingly marshy terrain, then just 20 metres from the road at Gransjö, Gustav slipped and…
Another mountain birthday
Yesterday I turned thirty-two, and I couldn’t have asked for much more from a birthday. We had a day of classic mountain walking, on wide, well-marked trails, with clear skies.…
The long road through Jämtland
I’m currently sitting, blissfully clean, fed and warm, looking out at the rain from a cabin at Gäddede Camping, in Northern Jämtland. The second leg of my journey is complete.…
Åre, and first leg down
I’ve reached my first resupply stop, at a smart town called Åre, in Jämtland. I’m scrubbed clean, boots swapped for flip-flops, sitting in the sunshine with a milkshake. The hard…
Helags
A quick update from Helags mountain station, where I am just finishing an unexpected lunch of waffles with hot coffee. Proof, if any were needed, that trekking isn’t all toil…
Tonight, Stockholm…
Tomorrow evening, hopefully, I’ll arrive at Grövelsjön mountain station, and if the conditions are decent enough then the following day, on Midsummer’s Eve, I’ll start the long walk north. In…
