Monthly Archives: July 2014

The waffles that weren’t on the map

The unexpected is a constant on a jaunt like this, but rarely have we had such a welcome surprise as the one that turned up this afternoon. It’s fair to say we were probably on a bit of a downer. … Continue reading

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A friend in a storm

Every seasoned hiker knows that when the weather really starts coming on hard, you just have to pull your hood low over your eyes, get your head down and get on with it. It’s a good job my pilgrim companion … Continue reading

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Red sky at night

Tonight we’re enjoying a rare bit of shelter in a little hut at a campsite a few kilometres short of Oppdal. We’ve found some wonderful wild spots to pitch our tents across the mountain stretch, but as we dropped back … Continue reading

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Upwards

Farmland and forests and fjords are all very beautiful in their different ways, but today we finally climbed above the treeline and onto the mountain plateau of Dovrefjell. At which point the views reached a whole new level, both literally … Continue reading

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The abandoned holiday park

The man at reception was cheerful if a little hesitant, followed everywhere by three wide-eyed, silent little blonde girls who kept getting under his feet like over-faithful spaniels. Truth be told, the motel was rather run-down, and almost completely empty, … Continue reading

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Lookout shack paradiso

After a rest day and some extortionate beer in Lillehammer, the two Daves and I have been continuing to trudge north towards Trondheim. Along the way, among other things, we’ve camped in haunting, hazy spruce forest, crossed bridges half wrecked … Continue reading

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On the eve of another year

Tomorrow I will be 31 years old. And not a bad way to spend it, all things considered. After ten days on the trail and roughly a third of the journey from Oslo to Trondheim behind me, I’ve reached the … Continue reading

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In praise of water and graveyards

Lately I’ve been enjoying two things a great deal. Churches and swims. I know pilgrims are supposed to stop at churches, but for my first week I didn’t really bother. Then one afternoon I was tramping along with my trail … Continue reading

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Coffee and stories in the old cottage

A long hike brings out the pessimist or optimist in you. Either the weather is always wrong, or it could always be worse. This afternoon I was walking a long uphill stretch of asphalt about half an hour short of … Continue reading

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Five days along the pilgrim road to Trondheim

After five days on the long trail out of Oslo, and four nights skulking in my tent in the woods, it’s finally time for a little comfort. Life in the tent is actually reasonably pleasant, but nothing ever seems to … Continue reading

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